Byzantine Stitch in Needlepoint: How to Work It, With Diagrams

Byzantine stitch is a diagonal needlepoint stitch laid out as a staircase. You work a run of diagonal stitches across, then a run down, then across again, and the next band nests against the first. Across a large area the bands form bold zigzags that move diagonally, which is why Byzantine is a favorite for skies, water, and big backgrounds.

What Byzantine stitch is

Every stitch in Byzantine slants the same way as tent stitch, bottom left to top right, but over more than one intersection. The pattern comes from where the stitches sit: a horizontal run of stitches side by side, then a vertical run stepping down, then horizontal again. The corner stitch of each step is shared by both runs.

The next band of stitches follows the same staircase directly against the first, so the whole area fills with interlocking diagonal steps. In one color, the steps show through light catching the stitch direction. In two colors, alternating band by band, they become a strong zigzag.

How to work Byzantine stitch

1. Start at the top-left of the area.
2. Work across. Make four diagonal stitches side by side, each over two intersections.
3. Turn down. Using the last stitch as the corner, work four stitches stepping straight down, each one directly below the last.
4. Turn across again, and keep alternating until you reach the edge of the area.
5. Work the next band directly against the first, following the same staircase. Its stitches share holes with the band above.

Fill gaps at the edges with shorter diagonals so the canvas is covered. Keep the step length the same throughout; a step that's one stitch short throws off every band after it.

Sizes and relatives

Sources disagree on the size of a "standard" Byzantine. Many teachers use stitches over two intersections with four stitches per step, as in the diagram. The Royal School of Needlework's Stitch Bank teaches a larger version, with stitches over four intersections and a repeat it describes as quite large. Both are Byzantine; the bigger the stitch, the faster it covers and the more it snags.

Jacquard stitch is the closest relative: the same staircase of longer stitches, alternating with a staircase row of tent stitches. The tent rows add a second texture and break up the pull on the canvas.

When to use it

Byzantine covers ground quickly, so it's a natural choice for large backgrounds. Its diagonal direction suggests movement, which suits skies, water, and wind-swept fields. For framed pieces it's hard to beat; for pillows and bags, the longer stitches can snag, so use the smaller size or a shorter stitch such as mosaic.

All the stitches slant one way, so Byzantine distorts the canvas noticeably. Work on stretcher bars with a light tension and plan to block the finished piece. The thread that covers in tent stitch on your mesh will cover here. The background stitches guide compares it with the other common background stitches, and nobuko is the other diagonal favorite for skies.

Further reading

• RSN Stitch Bank: Byzantine stitch — the Royal School of Needlework's version and diagram
• Unwind Studio: Byzantine stitch — a step-by-step tutorial with photos
• KC Needlepoint Stitch Vault: Byzantine stitch — a numbered diagram, plus the reverse version