Cashmere Stitch in Needlepoint: How to Work It, With Diagrams

Mosaic stitch stretched into a rectangle. The result is a soft woven texture that suits clothing, upholstery, and quiet backgrounds.

Cashmere stitch is four diagonal stitches that fill a block two canvas threads wide and three high: a short stitch over one intersection, two long stitches over two, and a final short stitch over one. According to the Royal School of Needlework's Stitch Bank, the blocks repeat "in line with those to the side, above and below to form a grid." The result is a soft texture of small rectangles that reads like woven cloth.

At a glance
Unit4 diagonal stitches in a block 2 wide × 3 high
Stitch lengthsOver 1, 2, 2, 1 intersections
Canvas distortionModerate
Snag riskLow to moderate
Best forClothing, upholstery, quiet backgrounds
One cashmere unit: short, long, long, short, in a block two threads wide and three high.

What cashmere stitch is

Cashmere is mosaic stitch stretched by one row. Where mosaic fills a 2 × 2 square with three stitches, cashmere adds a second long stitch to fill a 2 × 3 rectangle. Every stitch slants the same way as tent stitch, bottom left to top right.

That extra row changes the character of the texture. Mosaic reads as tiny squares; cashmere reads as small rectangles stacked in a grid, closer to the look of woven fabric. It's a favorite for clothing on painted canvases: sweaters, coats, upholstered chairs.

Cashmere units in a grid. Alternate units are shaded so the rectangles show.

How to work cashmere stitch

  1. Short stitch over the top-left intersection of the block.
  2. Long stitch over two intersections, one row down.
  3. Second long stitch over two intersections, one row further down.
  4. Short stitch over the bottom-right intersection.
  5. Next unit. Move two threads across and repeat. Units share holes along their edges.

Work the units in horizontal rows, all in the same stitch order. At the edges of an area, fill partial units with shorter diagonals or tent stitches so the canvas is covered.

Cashmere variations

The Stitch Bank notes that cashmere "may be worked diagonally or horizontally to suit the design."

  • Diagonal cashmere. Units are stepped down diagonally instead of lined up in a grid, so the long stitches form diagonal ribs. It gives a twill-like texture and suits backgrounds.
  • Condensed cashmere. The units overlap so the long stitches run in continuous diagonal lines, which gives a denser texture.
  • Staggered cashmere. Rows are offset like brickwork, which softens the grid.

When to use it

Use cashmere wherever a design calls for fabric: clothing, cushions and upholstery in a scene, tablecloths. It also makes a quiet background with a little more character than mosaic. The stitches are short, so it wears reasonably well, though the two long stitches per unit snag a little more than mosaic on pieces that get handled.

Thread is the same as for tent stitch on your mesh, since diagonal stitches cover the canvas well. All the stitches slant one way, so work on a frame with a light tension to limit distortion. The background stitches guide compares cashmere's relatives side by side.

FAQ

What is cashmere stitch in needlepoint?
A decorative stitch made of four diagonal stitches — over one, two, two, and one intersections — that fill a rectangular block two canvas threads wide and three high. The blocks sit in a grid to cover an area with a soft pattern of small rectangles.
What is the difference between cashmere and mosaic stitch?
Mosaic fills a 2 × 2 square with three stitches (1, 2, 1). Cashmere adds a second long stitch to fill a 2 × 3 rectangle (1, 2, 2, 1). The longer unit reads as a woven, slightly elongated texture.
Can cashmere stitch be worked diagonally?
Yes. The units can be stepped diagonally instead of lined up in a grid, which gives a ribbed, twill-like texture. Condensed and staggered cashmere are further variations.
Can Stitchmate chart cashmere stitch?
No. Stitchmate charts tent and petite stitches. Chart the design in tent stitch, then work flat areas of the chart in cashmere on the canvas.

Further reading

Chart the Design, Choose the Stitches Later

Stitchmate (stitchmate.app) charts needlepoint in tent and petite stitch on any mesh from 10 to 24. Chart your design, then work its flat areas in cashmere on the canvas.

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